Made with a deeper, richer pork bone stock, the broth has a fuller body and richer taste. The tonkotsu ramen ($7.95) was the best bowl ramen I had. Kunimoto said the broth has hints of citrus and chile pepper in it, but I confess I couldn't detect it. The miso ramen ($7.95) offers a little more depth of flavor, thanks to the addition of miso paste. Kunimoto tops the ramen with pickled bean sprouts, pickled bamboo shoots, green onion and a few slabs of rich and fatty pork. The noodles are springy and light with just enough resistance and chew. The tangle of kinky noodles served in the soup isn't made in-house but delivered fresh daily from a San Francisco purveyor. But it still makes for a good bowl of ramen. I like my broth with more depth and robust flavor. It's clean and light, but a little too light for my tastes. The opaque pork broth is pleasantly salty and rich with a distinct porcine flavor that has a few hints of garlic and ginger. According to Kunimoto, who prepares the ramen with two long chopsticks from a small but tidy workspace behind the counter, the shoyu ramen ($7.95) is the essence of the restaurant's New York style. For me, a good bowl of ramen is a delicious trinity made up of the broth, the noodles and the toppings. They serve nine kinds of ramen, curry rice and a few appetizers. I think the seats at the counter are best because you can watch Kunimoto at work as he prepares each bowl of ramen. ![]() With its long counter and small tables, 28-seat Kumako is a better fit for the space, although its growing popularity means it can fill up quickly. Former chef and owner Brett Yazukawa is now looking for more spacious surroundings elsewhere. ![]() While I loved Yazu, the space was too cramped for the culinary ambitions of the restaurant. Kumako moved into the small space formerly occupied by Yazu. They call it "New York-style" ramen, but really it's just their version, made with what they describe as a lighter yet more complexly flavored broth. They're from Sacramento and San Jose, respectively, but spent several years living and working in New York, where they perfected their particular brand of ramen. Kumako is a partnership between Ray Kojima and Art Kunimoto. Relocating to San Jose or Silicon Valley? Let San introduce you to some expert area real estate agents. Let San show you all the homes currently for sale.
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